MILITARY 1951 COAT

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TEXT

“I’m sittin‘ in the classroom learnin the rules and it says you can’t do graffiti in schools!”

That’s why we lead double lives! Creativity starts pumping late at night. Nights are spent drawing, making plans to go spraying. At the end, we have the trains moving through the whole city as free public galleries. Graffiti writers – the inventors of marketing.

Re-issue of Military M-65 Field Coat in cooperation with M-51 Field Coat. I extracted the most ingenious ideas from these revered garments and brought them all together in a field jacket. Marshallers in charge of guiding planes often fixed reflectors to the jackets themselves, to help fighter bombers or P-51 Mustang land safely on board the ship and get them into port. Without reflectors, the marshallers were in danger of being run over by the plane. Evidence from my clothing archive clearly shows that the reflectors had been attached by the soldiers themselves. In situations like that, neat seams are the last thing on your mind. And because reflector tape was at a premium, the 5cm tapes were cut in half, to 2.5 cm wide, to double the mileage. The M-65 Field Coat is recycled old jeans. Finished for an authentic denim look. 3×1 Selvedge Right Hand Twill. The denim was produced by an Italian textile weaver, transforming finest old cotton into new upcycled selvedge denim fabric with Blue Seed Organic.

Created Exclusively on Union Special Machines

Made in Germany

Available on QUICKSHOP.NYC

“I’m sittin‘ in the classroom learnin the rules and it says you can’t do graffiti in schools!”

That’s why we lead double lives! Creativity starts pumping late at night. Nights are spent drawing, making plans to go spraying. At the end, we have the trains moving through the whole city as free public galleries. Graffiti writers – the inventors of marketing.

Re-issue of Military M-65 Field Coat in cooperation with M-51 Field Coat. I extracted the most ingenious ideas from these revered garments and brought them all together in a field jacket. Marshallers in charge of guiding planes often fixed reflectors to the jackets themselves, to help fighter bombers or P-51 Mustang land safely on board the ship and get them into port. Without reflectors, the marshallers were in danger of being run over by the plane. Evidence from my clothing archive clearly shows that the reflectors had been attached by the soldiers themselves. In situations like that, neat seams are the last thing on your mind. And because reflector tape was at a premium, the 5cm tapes were cut in half, to 2.5 cm wide, to double the mileage. The M-65 Field Coat is recycled old jeans. Finished for an authentic denim look. 3×1 Selvedge Right Hand Twill. The denim was produced by an Italian textile weaver, transforming finest old cotton into new upcycled selvedge denim fabric with Blue Seed Organic.

Created Exclusively on Union Special Machines

Made in Germany

Available on QUICKSHOP.NYC

Long Live The McQueen

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“When I gave Alexander McQueen my pants”

After 9/11 2001, hamansutra met Alexander McQueen for an interview in London. The two women there as showroom managers were pretty unfriendly, and one of them even mocked haman’s British English street slang. Lee McQueen had been on the lookout for classic tailors able to perform tasks like hand-stitching eyelet buttonholes. But there was nothing free for the 22-year-old haman and they never worked together. And yet McQueen told haman, “We’re the same. Creative. I can see it in your sketchbooks.” Lee Alexander McQueen accepted haman’s German military pants and original sketch as a gift, with a hand-written dedication. Haman had the pants for a long time, good quality industrial manufacture, cheap, not trendy, a German-made product. The quality used to be better, but production moved abroad after the Second World War. A picture showing Lee Alexander McQueen actually wearing the military pants in his studio, has now been used for the cover of “Alexander McQueen – The Life and the Legacy” by Judith Watt, a globally published examination of the designer. The location of the picture was Amwell Street, London, near Angel in Islington, where McQueen lived within walking distance of his studio. Central St Martins College from the late 90s to 2010 was Alexander McQueen’s best time. If he were alive today he would still be the Number One. He went his own way and had his associates, who brought him up but also dragged him down – like the corporation that owned 51% of his company. The deaths of Isabella Blow and his mother were bitter blows; he was also under pressure from Gucci Group to deliver more commercial designs. A hoodie with the McQueen logo? Never! And yet he was an irreplaceable role model to us as St. Martins graduates. He shaped and formed us; we grew up surrounded by his superhuman energy and took on the responsibility and the pressure to match his quality, imposed by the same college and tutors. After his death in 2010 hamansutra decided to delete all his social media accounts. The news was like a physical blow, it caused complete numbness. Sometimes you wonder how people like that got to be so good – but take Alexander McQueen: I know that after CSM closed every day, he would hide under the tables in the pattern room to carry on working on his collection at night. It’s pretty sad that nobody can respect Alexander McQueen’s wishes and close the house. People and Gucci Group should have respected his wishes. They are too money hungry to care! Sad that creativity and industry can’t walk together for long. However, Lee McQueen made you dream, made you hopeful, made you love life…made you love fashion…he made us love art. His death was the culmination of his art. Rest in Paradise, brother.

Re-issue of the German Military Pants / Updated by Hamansutra

Available in 2020 at quickshop.nyc

10TH REMEMBRANCE YEAR
IN MEMORY OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
(*‪ 1969 – 2010‬)


Lee Alexander Mcqueen
alexandermcqueen.com

Photography
derricksantini.com

BUY
QUICKSHOP.NYC

“When I gave Alexander McQueen my pants”

After 9/11 2001, hamansutra met Alexander McQueen for an interview in London. The two women there as showroom managers were pretty unfriendly, and one of them even mocked haman’s British English street slang. Lee McQueen had been on the lookout for classic tailors able to perform tasks like hand-stitching eyelet buttonholes. But there was nothing free for the 22-year-old haman and they never worked together. And yet McQueen told haman, “We’re the same. Creative. I can see it in your sketchbooks.” Lee Alexander McQueen accepted haman’s German military pants and original sketch as a gift, with a hand-written dedication. Haman had the pants for a long time, good quality industrial manufacture, cheap, not trendy, a German-made product. The quality used to be better, but production moved abroad after the Second World War. A picture showing Lee Alexander McQueen actually wearing the military pants in his studio, has now been used for the cover of “Alexander McQueen – The Life and the Legacy” by Judith Watt, a globally published examination of the designer. The location of the picture was Amwell Street, London, near Angel in Islington, where McQueen lived within walking distance of his studio. Central St Martins College from the late 90s to 2010 was Alexander McQueen’s best time. If he were alive today he would still be the Number One. He went his own way and had his associates, who brought him up but also dragged him down – like the corporation that owned 51% of his company. The deaths of Isabella Blow and his mother were bitter blows; he was also under pressure from Gucci Group to deliver more commercial designs. A hoodie with the McQueen logo? Never! And yet he was an irreplaceable role model to us as St. Martins graduates. He shaped and formed us; we grew up surrounded by his superhuman energy and took on the responsibility and the pressure to match his quality, imposed by the same college and tutors. After his death in 2010 hamansutra decided to delete all his social media accounts. The news was like a physical blow, it caused complete numbness. Sometimes you wonder how people like that got to be so good – but take Alexander McQueen: I know that after CSM closed every day, he would hide under the tables in the pattern room to carry on working on his collection at night. It’s pretty sad that nobody can respect Alexander McQueen’s wishes and close the house. People and Gucci Group should have respected his wishes. They are too money hungry to care! Sad that creativity and industry can’t walk together for long. However, Lee McQueen made you dream, made you hopeful, made you love life…made you love fashion…he made us love art. His death was the culmination of his art. Rest in Paradise, brother.

Re-issue of the German Military Pants / Updated by Hamansutra

Available in 2020 at quickshop.nyc

10TH REMEMBRANCE YEAR
IN MEMORY OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
(*‪ 1969 – 2010‬)


Lee Alexander Mcqueen
alexandermcqueen.com

Photography
derricksantini.com

BUY
QUICKSHOP.NYC